Google maps tells me the nearest grocery store is 100 kilometers away. Something tells me that in a city of 110,000 residents, that’s probably false. I search again, this time for an AM:PM, a 24 hour store I know is available nearby. This time, the nearest result yielded is in Ra’anana, which I know for a fact is still inaccurate, since it’s 8 kilometers from me and there should be one around a corner somewhere, so I opt to wing it; I mean, how else did people find bread in foreign countries twenty years ago?
Finally at the store, I am overwhelmed a bit, as I take everything in. Prices aren’t always easily found, many products are only labeled in Hebrew (just starting to be able to decipher the difference between hummus and tahini, and the cucumbers (my favorite vegetable) are miniscule, albeit delicious. It’s normal to break one or two off a four-pack of yogurt or pull as many carrots out of a closed bag as you'd like, and the concept of 3% milk existing is still beyond me.
A few days ago, I would have handed the cashier 10 agorot as opposed to 10 shekels (the equivalent of giving someone pennies instead of two and a half U.S. dollars). But, I think I have a handle on it now.
The other night, I had Shabbat dinner with my landlord’s family. Most of the ingredients were pretty straightforward, as far as vegan fare goes. Rice, cauliflower, carrots, a ton of lentils, beets and so on. I was thrown off when people at the table made comments about how spicy everything was. I think of spicy as hot enough to burn my mouth, like chicken wings, but this wasn't hot; it was tasty. I soon determined that they were referring to the fact that the food was "full of spices" as spicy. I just found it interesting how we all speak the same language but interpret it completely differently.
That night, someone also commented on the fact that a typical American breakfast entailed a lot of fat—eggs, bacon, hashbrowns, etc, which I’m not going to lie, is pretty close to what my mom and I get when we set out on our bikes to our favorite local breakfast spot on summer weekend mornings.
That night, someone also commented on the fact that a typical American breakfast entailed a lot of fat—eggs, bacon, hashbrowns, etc, which I’m not going to lie, is pretty close to what my mom and I get when we set out on our bikes to our favorite local breakfast spot on summer weekend mornings.
At first glance, Israelis, even the non-vegan ones, eat a lot of vegetables and not so much meat, but then I’m having lunch at work and the guy across from me is making fun of my quinoa salad as he munches on his hamburger, so I guess that’s a reminder that nothing is black and white. That said, when I ordered a ham sandwich for lunch at work one day, I didn't really care either way but I genuinely thought that Google Translate had just translated wrong, even though Isa had mentioned that a lot of places in Tel Aviv weren't kosher.
But, that goes to show how much about Israel I thought I knew before I got here but didn't know (and likely still don't know). I mean, I read the history books. I learned about how secular a lot of Jewish people have become here, and I've noticed the same thing in the States (shout out to Elior--> We've definitely had this conversation). But, then Isa and her daughter took me to Jerusalem and the streets were spotted with kippah's of all shapes and sizes; then again, you see the same thing in Tel Aviv, on soldiers, on civilians, on streets, on trains, etc. And I think in some sense, my eyes were so focused on the kippah's and the very religious that I forgot about the broad spectrum of the religion. The Orthodox who would never call themselves Reform or Conservative the way the Americans would, but that doesn't mean they keep kosher or give up technology or yard work on Shabbat; many of them do and many don't. That was another concept it took me a while to grasp, as my landlord's son-in-law patiently explained to me how the Americans strived to significantly alter the religion, while the Israelis simply observed in the ways that they chose without arguing that the Orthodox were "wrong". For instance, on my run this past Saturday, there were a lot more cars on the road than I expected, much to my chagrin, but there were also others walking to Synagogue. Ultimately, I think I had that expectation of the country because you know, it's the Holy Land, but in many ways it's just like the United States, except all public transport and most places are closed on the sabbath, so people can rest and spend time with their families.
As the Israelis at the lunch table at work discuss Shabbat dinners with their families and minutes later, mention their love for bacon and poke fun at the guy across from me (who keeps kosher but also likes to ride his motorcycle on Shabbat), telling him that he is seriously missing out, the vast diversity in this country strikes me.
The truth is, I read that too. I read about the initial struggle as poor Jews entered Israel from Morocco and other African nations. How there was a massive clash between the Ashkenazi's who had settled earlier and the new arrivals. I learned about the violence and the huge gap between rich and poor. I learned about the rest of the country's frustration with the ultra-Orthodox who don't work in favor of studying Torah all day. I read these things, I discussed them with Isa, but did I truly understand them when I was back in the States, surrounded by my American friends, some of who love it here in Israel and some who thought I was absolutely insane for going, cranking through a 1000 page book of Israeli history that I grasped as much as anyone can understand wars and historic figures and history that they've hardly explored before? So yes, I understood, until I'm eating dinner on Shabbat with an Israeli family and one of them pulls out his phone, until I'm sitting next to a girl on the plane who grew up in Israel and now resides in Canada, and she tells me that when she was first making her online dating profile, she didn't care what religion her future significant other was, as long as he wasn't religious (as it turns out, she's engaged now and he's a Canadian who lived in Israel at one point in his childhood too, but again he's very secular), until I'm on the train with people of all complexions and hair colors (although surprisingly few people with hair as light as mine), or until I'm ordering a ham sandwich for lunch.
And yet, I'm still caught off guard sometimes, but in a good way, when I'm struck by what should have been obvious to me initially but went way over my head. For instance, yes I knew everything shut down for Shabbat, but I guess I didn't understand that means everything shut down for Shabbat… I mean, don't get me wrong, I understand how ignorant that sounds and again with the lack of everything being black and white; there are certainly restaurants open and even a few museums/tours available in Tel Aviv. But, the big question is if the trains shut down between Friday's sunset and Saturday's, how do you get to Tel Aviv from Herzliya without spending substantially more than a train ticket on a taxi? That's good motivation for the runner in me who is scheduled to run the Tel Aviv marathon in less than 7 weeks, because what better way to see the natural sights of the country if you're stuck some place until sunset?
So it's possible that I may have gotten slightly sidetracked from the topic at hand (namely food), but I think if you dig deep enough, you'll find some food talk, and I'll be sure to elaborate on that later.
But that’s just another day in Israel. I’m still soaking everything in, trying to learn all the ins and outs and differences of the area. I’ve been here for two weeks and I’m still trying to get the lay of the land, but I know how to read “Herzliya” in Hebrew now so at least I can always make the train back home after work. I love the beaches, I found a park to run in and made friends with a fellow runner and really like the company I’m working at, and I’m starting to get ready to travel more, although I was glad to spend this weekend exploring the market (Shuk HaCarmel) and the food fair they have on Thursday nights at the Dizengoff Center Mall and then running around Herzliya and relaxing (more on that later).
Catch you later. Have a great week!
But, that goes to show how much about Israel I thought I knew before I got here but didn't know (and likely still don't know). I mean, I read the history books. I learned about how secular a lot of Jewish people have become here, and I've noticed the same thing in the States (shout out to Elior--> We've definitely had this conversation). But, then Isa and her daughter took me to Jerusalem and the streets were spotted with kippah's of all shapes and sizes; then again, you see the same thing in Tel Aviv, on soldiers, on civilians, on streets, on trains, etc. And I think in some sense, my eyes were so focused on the kippah's and the very religious that I forgot about the broad spectrum of the religion. The Orthodox who would never call themselves Reform or Conservative the way the Americans would, but that doesn't mean they keep kosher or give up technology or yard work on Shabbat; many of them do and many don't. That was another concept it took me a while to grasp, as my landlord's son-in-law patiently explained to me how the Americans strived to significantly alter the religion, while the Israelis simply observed in the ways that they chose without arguing that the Orthodox were "wrong". For instance, on my run this past Saturday, there were a lot more cars on the road than I expected, much to my chagrin, but there were also others walking to Synagogue. Ultimately, I think I had that expectation of the country because you know, it's the Holy Land, but in many ways it's just like the United States, except all public transport and most places are closed on the sabbath, so people can rest and spend time with their families.
As the Israelis at the lunch table at work discuss Shabbat dinners with their families and minutes later, mention their love for bacon and poke fun at the guy across from me (who keeps kosher but also likes to ride his motorcycle on Shabbat), telling him that he is seriously missing out, the vast diversity in this country strikes me.
The truth is, I read that too. I read about the initial struggle as poor Jews entered Israel from Morocco and other African nations. How there was a massive clash between the Ashkenazi's who had settled earlier and the new arrivals. I learned about the violence and the huge gap between rich and poor. I learned about the rest of the country's frustration with the ultra-Orthodox who don't work in favor of studying Torah all day. I read these things, I discussed them with Isa, but did I truly understand them when I was back in the States, surrounded by my American friends, some of who love it here in Israel and some who thought I was absolutely insane for going, cranking through a 1000 page book of Israeli history that I grasped as much as anyone can understand wars and historic figures and history that they've hardly explored before? So yes, I understood, until I'm eating dinner on Shabbat with an Israeli family and one of them pulls out his phone, until I'm sitting next to a girl on the plane who grew up in Israel and now resides in Canada, and she tells me that when she was first making her online dating profile, she didn't care what religion her future significant other was, as long as he wasn't religious (as it turns out, she's engaged now and he's a Canadian who lived in Israel at one point in his childhood too, but again he's very secular), until I'm on the train with people of all complexions and hair colors (although surprisingly few people with hair as light as mine), or until I'm ordering a ham sandwich for lunch.
And yet, I'm still caught off guard sometimes, but in a good way, when I'm struck by what should have been obvious to me initially but went way over my head. For instance, yes I knew everything shut down for Shabbat, but I guess I didn't understand that means everything shut down for Shabbat… I mean, don't get me wrong, I understand how ignorant that sounds and again with the lack of everything being black and white; there are certainly restaurants open and even a few museums/tours available in Tel Aviv. But, the big question is if the trains shut down between Friday's sunset and Saturday's, how do you get to Tel Aviv from Herzliya without spending substantially more than a train ticket on a taxi? That's good motivation for the runner in me who is scheduled to run the Tel Aviv marathon in less than 7 weeks, because what better way to see the natural sights of the country if you're stuck some place until sunset?
So it's possible that I may have gotten slightly sidetracked from the topic at hand (namely food), but I think if you dig deep enough, you'll find some food talk, and I'll be sure to elaborate on that later.
But that’s just another day in Israel. I’m still soaking everything in, trying to learn all the ins and outs and differences of the area. I’ve been here for two weeks and I’m still trying to get the lay of the land, but I know how to read “Herzliya” in Hebrew now so at least I can always make the train back home after work. I love the beaches, I found a park to run in and made friends with a fellow runner and really like the company I’m working at, and I’m starting to get ready to travel more, although I was glad to spend this weekend exploring the market (Shuk HaCarmel) and the food fair they have on Thursday nights at the Dizengoff Center Mall and then running around Herzliya and relaxing (more on that later).
Catch you later. Have a great week!
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