Monday, January 25, 2016

Wandering Through The Desert (and other thoughts)

            Recently, I had the opportunity to visit the Ramon Crater, which is basically a giant hole in the middle of the desert.  I'm not going to talk too much about it.  It's primarily a cool landscape in the desert and a prime place to hike, so I'll let the pictures speak for themselves.  Honestly it's one hundred percent in the middle of nowhere but I'm still a big fan.  It's pretty desolate, but in a good way, although as a result, most of the people living out there are very poor, because it's such an underdeveloped area and it doesn't have much happening besides tourism.  As Isa says, it's stark.  And she's right.  All the Israelis seem to like the green parts of the country better, but I grew up on a lake so I came out here for something new.    
            The Ramon Crater was definitely striking.  It's really dry, even in the winter (when all it seems to do in Tel Aviv is rain), although it was a little chilly and windy and the visibility was a little cloudy due to the dust in the air.  Definitely carry a ton of water with you.  You don't realize how dry it is in this country until you're super thirsty.  It's also unique because it was created by the process of natural erosion and not by an asteroid.  

            I was thinking the other day while hiking there, how Moses led the Israelites through the desert for forty years.  I was tired after a couple hours and I had a couple giant bottles of water, other people and a cell phone equipped with 3G. 
            Later in the day, when I was using Whatsapp with my friends back home, one asked how there was service in the desert.  My response was that when half your country is desert, you put up cell towers.  It’s also a tiny nation and Israel has the infrastructure and finances to do so.  But, I can definitely see how in other, less developed nations, you’d be pretty unsupported out in the desert. 
            It’s interesting how much travel has changed.  If you think about it, it’s existed forever, since before Moses led the Israelites out of Egypt.  But, when the first humans were moving around following their food sources, it wasn’t really about having a good time around the world, going for long runs along the beach, meeting new people of different cultures, trying different recipes/foods, picking up a few words of a new language and spreading your own, having an adventure…
            It was all about survival.  Survival… Going somewhere where you could find food and water to nourish you, shelter to protect you from outside dangers… A place where you wouldn’t be imprisoned, killed or mistreated… Or a place where you could expand your empire into and garner all the natural resources available to you… A conquest. 
            Today we hop airplanes on a daily basis… for work, family, adventures… to learn a new language, get some good pictures, meet someone new… To have fun, to explore, for a change of pace.  Sure, sometimes we get frustrated, but later, we’ll probably turn it around and say that getting lost in that random city was the best experience of our lives because we learned more about ourselves than we ever imagined…
            I wouldn’t disagree… We travel to learn how to fail and to learn how to succeed…  Or because we want to… To try new foods, dig into history, culture, religion, landscapes… to go to war… to escape it… to help parts of the world fraught with conflict and disrepair… To escape it… and so on…
            But, it wasn’t always like that. 
            When did it become for fun? 
            About snapping photos on the beach with your friends, riding a horse, racing alongside runners from all over the world, soaking up history, seeing sights that have been rebuilt just for tourists, gazing across the ocean into countries like Egypt that you are unable to enter? 
            But, move back a few paragraphs and understand that it’s not always fun, it’s not always an adventure.  Sometimes it’s a sense of duty.  Sometimes it’s a sense of fear.
            Why do you get on that airplane or the ship?  Why do we study abroad?  When did our lives become a melting pot of friendships with people from all over the world?  When did it become so easy and affordable to call your parents back home? 
            You don’t have to wait for letters anymore or wait in line to use a payphone to talk to your mom and dad.
            The biggest obstacle now is the time zone (and that’s not going anywhere, but it’s a much smaller obstacle than what people faced a thousand, or even thirty years ago). 
            That said, I have a strange habit of expecting to get emails or Whatsapp messages from people back in the U.S. in the mornings.  But, then I look at the clock and realize that it’s 10:48 AM so at home, it’s 3:48 AM and no one’s awake… When I first got here, I made fun of my mom when I called her at 8 PM and she asked how work was, assuming I was there.  But, it’s really easy to get caught up in your own time zone when it’s super sunny out and completely forget that it’s pitch black out on the other side of the world. 
            Because the company who sold me my Israeli SIM card has a business plan primarily focused on the thousands of American students who take gap years and go on birthright and internship programs every year, they offer an American number attached to your line for $10 USD a month and then you can call your friends and family back home for free.  I initially wasn’t planning on doing that (I mean that’s why we have Skype and Whatsapp) but it’s honestly been incredibly convenient and has made it really easy for me to make any calls I need. 
            Subsequently, technology has opened an endless realm of opportunities for travellers.  From Google Translate to Moovit and Waze (apps for navigating) to the high speed train from Tel Aviv to Jerusalem (that will hopefully be completed in the next decade; just kidding, make that 2 years), we have so many means available to us when in the past, we would shave been forced to rely on word of mouth and a paper map (that said, I spend a surprising amount of time with those). 
            Technology has also opened up an endless realm of opportunities for the world.
            This past weekend at Caesarea, I was looking out at the arena where the Romans would gather to watch deadly chariot races or make a day of skinning “rebels” alive.  Then, our guide led us to a well, where the Romans would toss the name of someone they disliked in hopes that the action would send them to hell and perform other spells. 
            I can’t say that humanity has changed completely since those times, that violence doesn’t exist and the age-old questions of whose land is whose or what religion is the correct one, have faded. 
            But, we’ve definitely strived to become more civilized and maybe in a thousand years, someone will look back and call us uncivilized.  We look back to the past to understand, maybe we’ve softened, but life expectancy has risen with that realization.  Would we be able to survive in the desert for forty years if we were to try right now?  Wouldn’t someone find us first, come to save us?  Wouldn’t we want them to as the sun beats down and it hasn’t rained for days or we are powerless to stop the wind?
            I’m pretty sure that Moses and his people were out there in the desert even before the Ramon Crater was even created.  If it had been there, what would they have said?  "Let's take some selfies?"  Or "Let's climb down.  Maybe there's water down there"?  Your guess is as good as mine.  Humanity has changed a lot, but maybe that's okay.  Maybe, that's simply to be expected.  It’s amazing how much has survived the last several thousand years, but how much has changed too.  We stand in the Holy Land, a land of history, of anguish, of hope… We dig up artifacts and fortresses, sometimes even one on top of the other.  But, we also walk through the fortress, and find ourselves looking at the piles of rubble that lay behind, the deep unknown that no one has found the time or money to excavate yet. 
            In how many years will this nation have stopped changing?  When will it be safe to say, “I’ve been there already.  No need to go back”?  When will the world have lost its charm, will history be a thing we can’t learn from anymore?  When will everyone stay in place, instead of wandering as nomads in trains, planes and automobiles?
            I have a feeling that travel won’t ever be a thing of the past.  The stockmarket waxes and wanes, foreign dollars strengthen and weaken.  Someone will always want to go somewhere, as long as it’s safe to do so.  As long as Tel Aviv is the "City That Never Sleeps", Jerusalem is the pillar of religion and the Dead Sea is there to float in, I think it's safe to say that people will always want to come here.  And who am I to say that if the nightclubs die down and the Dead Sea dries up, the history won't be enough to continuously bring tourists in flocks?
            Walk through the footsteps of our ancestors and their tormentors.  Listen to the stories of the people who first settled here and follow their customs.  Then bring your own to the mix. 
            That’s why in Israel, they eat hummus, Baklava, Turkish Delight, Sahlab (yuck), and even McDonald’s (apparently they have kosher and non-kosher ones).  They speak a smattering of languages and practice all sorts of religions. 
            And yet, the Jewish people own their nation too.  They speak the language of Hebrew, which they brought back and modernized as a spoken language over a hundred years ago.  A nation they fought for.  They shut down public transport and shops on Saturdays and focus on family. 
             You have the Holy City and you have the Sin City (Tel Aviv), just an hour or two apart.  People argue over the best way to handle the Sabbath, and yet the country pulls through on not becoming too secular. 
             Well, that’s all I have for now.  Catch you later. 


         

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